It’s not very often that I’m blown away by a new bike, but it happens on occasion. Take the Intense 6.6, for example. When introduced, it was one of my favorite bikes. Then came the Ellsworth Epiphany, Yeti 575 and the Niner RIP 9. While those are all great bikes, the endless march continues for the best trailbike on the market.
As additional boutique bike manufacturers have adopted the much-heralded DW-Link suspension design, the praise has followed. But, only one combines full carbon with the DW-Link and that’s the Ibis Mojo. The DW suspension platform lives up to the hype–no question. So, would the carbon/DW combo prove to be the silver bullet? Locked and loaded, I was bent on finding out the answer to that question with a custom-built 2010 Ibis Mojo.
About the Ibis Mojo
Since its introduction in 2005, which also ushered the return of Scot Nicol to Ibis, the Mojo has won many awards as well as the hearts of a faithful crowd over at MTBR.com. Outside Magazine has gushed over it and so have most of the mainstream mountain biking publications over the past 4 years. The fireplace is adorned with everything short of an Oscar, I guess. And to top it all off, the vibe at IbisCycles.com is witty and a bit irreverent, which adds to the fun of the brand.
The standard Mojo is built from head-to-toe in the latest in high-modulus carbon fiber with smooth lines and available in five colors. Here are a few more specs:
- High-modulus carbon-fiber
- Easy-to-service pivots and bearings
- Lopes Link now standard for increased stiffness
- Forged and nickel-plated links in chrome, blue or red
- Travel: 140mm (5.5″)
- Colors: Clear, Nuclear Pesto, Guiness Foam, Vicious Blue or Eddy Orange
- Weight: Sub-6 lbs. (frame & shock)
- MSRP: $1999 (frame & shock)
Ibis Mojo Review
Upon arrival, the Mojo had a set of Crank Brothers Iodine wheels, a 2010 Fox 2010 32 TALAS fork and a complete SRAM X.9 group waiting in the garage to complete the build–solid parts to adorn this carbon beauty. I ended up with the clear black color frame (after waiting a few weeks for the Guiness Foam), which in the end looks to be the best choice in combination with the burnt orange wheels… it’s a looker both on and off the trails.
The complete build was performed by the crew at Timpanogos Cyclery in Pleasant Grove, Utah. Not only did they do a great job, but they turned it around in an afternoon in rockstar fashion. The mechanics were stoked to build up the Mojo and had the final weight waiting for me upon arrival… 26.5 lbs.! I knew it would be light, but not that light! I’m confident if I carbon this thing out, it would easily drop below 26 lbs.
My Mojo Custom Build
- 2010 Ibis Mojo (Size: Large – Color: Clear – Lopes Link)
- Rear Shock: 2010 Fox RP23 w/Boostvalve
- Front Shock: 2010 Fox 32 TALAS 150 RLC
- Wheelset: Crank Brothers Iodine
- Drivetrain/Shifting: SRAM X.9
- Cranks: Shimano SLX
- Brakes: Avid Elixir R (180 front / 160 rear)
- Tires: WTB Wolverine 2.2 F/R
- Stem: Syncros AM (60mm / 12deg)
- Seatpost: Ibis
- Bars: Ibis low riser
- Headset: Cane Creek IS3
- Saddle: WTB Rocket-V
- Pedals: Crank Brothers Candy SL
On the Dirt
Once built-up, I couldn’t believe just how absolutely sexy this bike was. After a photo session suitable for a fashion model, I was this close to keeping it hanging in the garage a few more days just to enjoy it, but alas… the trails beckoned.
After looking through the included Owner’s Manual (yup, I actually read parts of it) for suggested rear sag settings, I settled on 15mm sag for my weight (175 lbs.) and riding style (everything, everywhere, all the time). That put me at 140 psi., which has turned out to be perfect for both XC and AM riding. The front fork took a little more fiddling to find the right air pressure, but in the end I’ve settled on 80 psi. For the first few rides, you may want to be sure and take a shock pump along as you fine-tune the suspension to your liking.
Above all, I keep coming back to the light weight of this bike as built. My goal was not to build the lightest bike, but this is by far the lightest all-mountain bike I’ve owned and it is absolutely amazing how much of a difference dropping a couple of pounds can make.
OK… once I got past the ooo’s and aahhh’s of the bike and its light weight, I was bent on finding its weak spots on the trail. I’ve now ridden the Mojo on a variety of nearby trails–from high-energy XC burn-fests to thousand-foot climbs and on down fast and technical descents. Nothing fazes this thing.
In all conditions, the DW-Link suspension provides super-efficient pedaling performance. Climbing traction is awesome in all conditions with the only weakness shown in the tire traction at times on steep, rocky pitches. The entire rear-end stays steady and smooth under occasional hard pedaling and digs in for fast power transfer throughout all types of steady climbs. The occasional standing climb does blow through the travel a bit more, but traction is maintained.
When pointing this bike downhill, the suspension really shines. I love how well it soaks up obstacles and adapts to varied terrain. Rock drops and jumps are no match for this bike as it launches with ease and lands with bottomless comfort. The suspension ramps up well with consistently smooth resistance–making the 5.5″ of travel feel like more. I’m sure the new 2010 Fox RP23 with Boost Valve that I’ve been riding improves the downhill performance over the 2009 model, but I didn’t have a 2009 model shock on this particular bike for a direct comparison. All I can tell you is the new 2010 RP23 is perfect on this bike.
Like all full-suspension bikes (except full-bore DH rigs), there are some small bump compliance issues where you can feel the rear end bouncing on rutted or rocky downhills, but it’s acceptable and forgetful considering how well this bike performs otherwise.
I’ve found the 2010 Fox 32 TALAS 150 with 15QR to be the perfect fork for this bike. Without question, the adjustability of the TALAS system makes this bike even more versatile, but if you’re running short on cash and have to settle for a 140mm or 150mm fork without travel adjustment, you won’t be sacrificing much. At full 150mm travel mode, this bike climbs with minimal wander and descends with confidence. Dropping it to 130mm slightly reduces front-end wander and makes for a little speedier handling (excellent for XC-style romps).
Some may question the durability of carbon fiber, but throughout my tests, this bike has felt absolutely solid with no perceptible flex or weakness. Like any bike frame, a hard crash may require inspection by a mechanic, but carbon frames can in most cases be repaired easier than aluminum or steel tubes.
An email from Scot Nicol yielded a bit of the thought process behind selecting carbon fiber for the Mojo:
“When we first conceived of the Mojo back in ‘03 or so, one of our biggest questions was about the acceptance of the material. We rolled the dice and went for it. At first there were a lot of questions about it. But once people got some time on their Mojos and reported back on MTBR and places like that, the acceptance became less and less an issue.
Now we’ve got guys like Brian Lopes riding it, and all you need to do is look at the video we’ve posted (go full screen) on the Lopes page on our website, and that should make a bit of a believer out of you.”
~ Ibis Founder, Scot Nicol
I opted to mount the Crank Brothers Iodine wheels on my Mojo and they have been the perfect wheelset for this bike. I suppose if you wanted to save 363 grams, you could go with the Cobalt’s, but the lateral stiffness, quick engagement and worry-free performance has been a perfect match for the Mojo. Leaning hard into the corners, the Mojo just carves with ease and the wheelset provides just the right stiffness to maintain a consistent trail feel. The Mojo SLX is now shipping with Ibis wheels, which look solid and offer 9mm, 15mm and 20mm axle compatibility out of the box.
I’ve had more fun on the Mojo than on any other bike I can recall to date. It’s versatility is really unmatched (adding an adjustable-travel fork adds to that) and its overall efficiency just screams to be ridden and ridden hard. I love pounding out XC terrain and flying through twisty singletrack one day and then pushing the limits of my lungs and the Mojo on high-altitude climbs the next day. It is a consistent and comfortable performer when gravity takes over and always seems to glide through all types of sketchy terrain.
Good Mojo
- The most confidence-inspiring bike I’ve owned in a long time
- Amazingly-light and fast up and down
- Super stiff frame feels solid
- Very flickable
- Drop-dead sexy looks
- Smoothest-climbing bike with 5.5″ travel
- Climbs straight with 150mm fork–even without reducing travel
- Built-in seatpost QR is smooth to use
- No weight limit on the frame
- 2-year warranty
- Absorbs drops and soaks up rough terrain
- Hauls tail equally well in XC or rugged AM terrain
Bad Mojo
- Difficulty in getting certain frame colors
- Location of single water bottle mount is a waste
- I have heard complaints about clearcoat chippage, but nothing so far with mine
- Some people just won’t believe carbon fiber can be this capable (their loss)
The Bottom Line: 2010 Ibis Mojo
It’s hard not to gush over this bike. Superlatives like “best ever” and “bike of the year” are said with care because the overall feel of a bike depends on riding style and terrain, but I will step out on a limb and call the 2010 Ibis Mojo the most fun, most versatile and most capable mountain bike I’ve ever owned or ridden. The custom build I’ve got isn’t cheap, but you can get a similarly-performing bike for $3000 with the Mojo SLX kit and upgrade as needed. I can say with confidence that you could not make a better choice for true all-mountain performance.
Growing up in Seattle, Jason quickly developed a love for the outdoors and a thing for mountains. That infatuation continued as he founded 
Jason…this is my build. I have everything except the Joplin 4, Gore Ride On cables, pedals, and tires (but included the general price in my overall build cost). The Joplin 4 won’t be available until mid Jan. I’m still waiting on info from you regarding whether the Mutano Raptor 2.4’s will rub, and just haven’t gotten around to placing my FrameSkin order from Alan in Australia. I’m hoping to snag a pair of pedals on eBay around Christmas for a good price. I got screaming deals on several of the big items and saved a ton of money. I would say it was just luck and persistence rather than being “connected” or an eBay “Power Buyer.”
Frame Ibis Mojo SL
Shock DT Swiss XR Carbon
Fork Fox 32 Talas 150 RLC FIT 15QR 110-150mm
Brakes SRAM XX 185/160
Shifter Set SRAM XX
Crankset SRAM XX 175 42-28
Bottom Bracket Truvativ GXP
Rear Derailleur SRAM XX medium cage
Cassette SRAM XX 11-36
Front Derailleur SRAM XX (High clamp, top pull, 34.9mm)
Shifer/Lever Mount Matchmaker X
Chain SRAM 1090 w/ Power Lock
Cables/Housing Gore Ride On derailleur cables
Wheelset Crank Brothers Iodine (orange)
Quick release adapter Crank Brothers 15QR adapter
Tires WTB Mutano Raptor 2.4 (tubeless)
Pedals Crank Brothers Candy SL black
Headset Cane Creek 110.IS
Stem Syncros FL Stem 100mm
Handlebar Easton Monkeylite XC low rise 660mm
Grip Oury Mountain Grip black
Seatpost Crank Brothers Joplin4 Remote (available in Jan)
Saddle Selle Italia Flite Carbonio Kit Flow
Tire Sealant Stans goop
Frame Protection FrameSkin
Chain Stay Protection FrameWrap
Jason,
I am pullng the trigger on the Mojo today. One last decision after I have narrowed my choice to the Mojo from my short list of Yeti 575, Yeti ASR5, Santa Cruz Blur LT Carbon, and SC Tallboy. I can either get the Mojo (clear) with the XT kit and a weight around 25 lbs or I can get the Mojo SL (white) with X9.0 kit and upgrade to a Talas Fork for what I guessing about 26.5 lbs. Do you ride uphill in 100mm position? How much of a difference does it make. Price ends up being about the same. What would you do? Hoping you get this this morning and can give me your opinion before I jump. Thanks, Shaun
It surprises me that the SL is coming in at a higher weight… are you sure on those weights? Either way, I never climbed in 100mm mode–even in technical stuff. 100mm mode really puts a ton of weight on the front wheel, thus feeling like your plowing the earth. 130mm mode is just right, however. I recommend getting the TALAS or a Revelation with U-turn, but dropping below 120-130mm really shifts the weight balance and puts more weight on the front wheel than you’re gonna like.
You’re gonna dig the Mojo, buddy!
I figured the weights from the wrench science website. According to them, the Mojo SL X9 is about a pound heavier than the Mojo XT. I added a half a pound for the Talas upgrade. However, looking at the Fox website the talas only adds a tenth of a pound. One more question if I can. The Santa Cruz Tallboy was the first runner up. How would you compare it to the Mojo on Utah trails. I am 6′-1″ and liked the XL longer cockpit on the Tallboy and the idea of 29″ hoops.
Hmmm… their calculator must be wrong as there’s no way that X.0 adds that much weight. Are the wheels different? The Mojo SL itself is .65 lbs lighter than the standard Mojo.
Anyway… the Mojo is a killer bike–no question. I’ve really enjoyed mine and have found it to stack up at the top against everything out there.
The Tallboy is somewhat of a surprising bike. I rode it for only an hour at Interbike, but during that hour, I was blown away by its performance and ride characteristics. It’s not going to be as plush as the Mojo, but will roll as smooth or smoother thanks to the big hoops.
So hard to say, man. Both are going to be killer bikes, but if you’re looking for the best “do it all” bike (from Porcupine Rim to Clark’s Trail), the Mojo is going to be very hard to beat.
BTW… that white Mojo SL is amazing-looking, IMO.
As far as the Tallboy goes, availability is still a ways out, I thought. Or, are they delivering them already?
I thought they were delivering them but could be wrong. Just pulled the trigger. The white Mojo SL with SLX kit and Talas fork will be sitting under the christmas tree thanks to Wild Rose. Thanks for the help.
SWEEEET! The SLX kit is a killer value for the money and you’ll dig the TALAS on that bike.
Hi, great review…
I’m 5′10, currently happy with my Yeti 575 (medium, 90mm stem, straight thomson post), I run Lyrik in front and make it a heavy set up bike for harder AM.
I’m looking for a lighter bike with a similar travel, I will run 140 fork instead to have a lighter and better climber.
It’s been a long time I’m interested of getting a Blur LTc or a Mojo SL, but I couldn’t decided between those two and still confuse with M or L size.
What do you think will suit me more? And what size? I will appreciate any comment and input… Thx a lot J
Looks like you’re right about my same size and setup on the 575. I ride a Large Mojo and find it to be perfect. The TT measurement is .3″ shorter on the Large Mojo vs. the Medium 575. Slight adjustments in stem length and rise will get you dialed just the way you like. Both the BLTc and Mojo are killer bikes. I’d say the Mojo is worthy of all the kudos indeed.
Noticed that your running a short stem. I am curious about why you chose the short stem? There seems to be a couple of schools of thought on stem length as I read the message boards on MTBR. The old school represented by older posts in which Tom at Ibis recommends anyone on the boarder of sizes to pick the smaller size and go with a longer stem. Says they designed the Mojo around a 100mm – 110mm stem to evenly balance the bike for all around better performance and better climbing. Then their seems to be the new school of thought represented on newer posts, which is to set up your bike up like Brian Lopes with a shorter lowrise stem and wider lowrise handlebars which is better for downhill but affects climbing performance. I ended up getting an XL with a 110mm stem after using the fit system on Wrench Science. I know alot of this is just rider preference and finding a fit that feels comfortable but thinking I might try a shorter stem.
Sweet. Thanks for the review, finally made up my mind to get a Mojo + X9 kit + 32 Talas RLC upgrade. Costs $3900 all in from where I am (Philippines). What else should I try to upgrade with the X9 kit? Was having a difficult time choosing among Ibis’ Mojo, Pivot’s Mach 5 and Titus’ FTM. Is carbon fiber bikes a good choice for first-time riders? This is gonna be my first mountain bike and I know I’m going to crash a lot since I try to be as aggressive as I can!
@Shaun… stem length is highly-personal, but I typically go with a shorter stem on all my bikes. What that does is slow things down just a tad to provide more stable downhill handling. At 60mm, my stem may seem short to some, but it performs awesome both uphill and down. I’d maybe go up to 80mm, but that’s about as long as I’d go, personally. I have a few stems lying around should you want to try a different length.
@John… You’re gonna be stoked on your new rig, but that’s quite the bike for a first-timer. Make sure you make the best of it. Crashing is a concern, but I wouldn’t worry about it. You’ll be just fine. It sounds like you’ve got a great setup with X9 and the RLC… really, I can’t think of much to upgrade outside the wheels or playing with tires. You don’t really need anything more than what you’ve got. X9 is killer and that fork is perfect!
Thanks for the prompt reply man! On my way to our local dealer to make the downpayment! Wanted to include Iodine wheels with it since they give discounts if you buy with the bike but I guess I’ll save that for another day! More power and thanks again man