After gushing over the Mojo, then riding and reviewing the new Mojo HD, I can see where Ibis is coming from with the introduction of the new (well, sorta) Mojo HD 140. I was able to snap a few quick shots from Bike DealerCamp yesterday and will hopefully get a few more shortly.
By utilizing the same frame as the HD, Ibis has come up with swappable “Limbo Chips” (arched forward shock mounts) that will allow the HD to accept the standard shocks utilized on the Mojo and Mojo SL models, thus dropping the travel to 140mm and steepening up the head angle by a degree (with 150mm fork).
Chatting with Scot Nicol (Owner, Ibis Cycles), he acknowledged that the HD may be overkill for some folks, but those same peeps are clamoring for the new tapered steerer forks and/or they want something a little beefier than the Mojo/Mojo SL. While I absolutely love the Mojo, I can see how people might want just a little more beef and are willing to sacrifice a few pounds to do it.
Quick Rundown of the Mojo HD 140:
- 140mm rear wheel travel (vs 160mm w/HD)
- 68-deg head angle w/150mm travel fork (vs 67-deg with HD and 160mm fork)
- 6.1 lb frame (vs 6.2 lb for HD)
- 32mm stanchion fork saves significant weight
- Accepts tapered-steerer forks
- 13.5″ BB height (vs 13.8m for HD)
- Same anti-squat platform, but lighter and quicker than the HD
- Availability: Late August 2010
- MSRP: TBA (guessing same as HD at $2399)
More Info: Visit IbisCycles.com – Download Mojo HD 140 Spec Sheet (PDF)
A Seattle native, Jason developed a love for the outdoors and a thing for mountains. That infatuation continues as he founded
Jason,
I am in the market for a new ride and had the oppurtunity to ride the Mojo and 70RSL from RM. Both great bikes! I am undecided on which way to go. any advice on the major differences in these bikes?
Thank you
Jeff… Both are great bikes, bit I’d prefer the Mojo for my style of riding. It’s more capable overall with a plusher feel and more stable downhill handling. You can’t go wrong with either, but the Mojo is the one to beat.
Is it your understanding that the “140″ frame is identical to the HD frame? So for someone who owns an HD…he can add a limbo chip to his frame, change the shock and fork, and voila! He’s got an HD140, right? Or is the frame built from a different mold…what else would account for the difference in weight? Shock weight?
Hey Mark… same exact frameset, so yes you can just buy the Limbo Chips and a standard Mojo shock and you’ve now got an HD 140.
A “Transformer” Mojo? Would it make any sense to retain a 160mm rear travel shock with a 150mm fork? You can, but should you? Steeper rake than the HD to help with climbing? Or more like Frankenstein and less like Transformer? Keep the 140mm shock and LimboChips in the toolbox to swap in for the XC rides?
That’s the beauty of either TALAS or U-turn systems to drop the front-end temporarily as-needed. If you want to have a “do it all” bike, you could go for a Fox 36 TALAS or RS Lyrik U-turn and simply drop the front end to match the installed rear Limbo Chips and shock.
It’s not the easiest swap (limbo/shock), but at least you wouldn’t have to swap out the fork as well.
Yup, you’re right about the fork. But I’ve got a Revelation 150 with a tapered steer tube…so the HD frame is more attractive than the SL because I can reuse my fork and wheels.
But if I can “tame” the HD with a 140mm rear shock and LimboChip… I just wonder if there is any noticeable advantage of having the 160mm rear travel as an alternative with the 150mm fork.
Gotcha… the Revelation 150 is a great fork and with the HD 140, that seems like it would be a great balance. I’m not sure what the axle-to-crown is on your fork versus a 160mm Fox 36, but I’m guessing it may simply steepen your angles just a tad. I’m sure it wouldn’t be awful and actually may be just right–depending on how your ride.
Jason, keep the great reviews coming! I have to admit I am a bit confused to why this version of the bike is necessary. If the Mojo is not beefy enough, then why not get the HD? Can you help explain in a little more detail why this is different from the SL and give some rough guidelines for how to choose between the SL, HD140, and the HD? I demo’d the HD in Park City a few weeks ago and was blown away with how well it rode. It was lighter than my Stumpjumper, climbed just as well (with the TALAS dropped from 160 to 120) and GOOD LORD did it scream on the way down. If I wanted an HD, why not get the real deal? If it is “too much”, then why not get the SL?
Elias… like many bikes on the market, the HD 140 will cater to a specific audience. In this case, Scot Nicol (Ibis Prez) gave these selling points:
Maybe that helps shed some light on it. Essentially, for those who want an ultra-stiff and durable Mojo, but don’t need all that extra travel, the HD 140 is your steed. You can also take advantage of the latest tapered steerer forks for added stiffness.
Really helpful insights Jason.
Just ordered a L framed Ibis Mojo HD with DHX for the 160mm travel and I may just get an RP23 as my 140mm shock. Gonna be Slapping on a 36 Talas 180mm on it as well. Any thoughts on having DHX on the HD? I hear a lot of people saying that it’s not a good fit with the Mojo and Mojo SL so I was wondering if I should push through with the DHX option. And yeah I’m really getting confused with what to pick – Vitamin P or Nude Black? Is the Vitamin P colorway too wild? My existing rims are Orange Iodines so I was kinda guessing that I’m gonna look like I’m clamoring for attention with that combo.
Would love to hear your thoughts as always!
John
John… you’re STOKED! So awesome! I’d go with the black color if I were you… the Iodines look solid against the black frame. Sizing seems about right, I think.
As far as the DHX, I haven’t heard much in the way of good or bad with it. I’ve been OK with the RP23 and haven’t thought much about the upgrade, but I’m sure it will make things that much more plush. Enjoy it man!!!
Yeah I am! Great thanks man, hope to read more stuff from ya soon!
I attended back-to-back demo days this weekend in norcal, and talked to the reps a bit. It seems like the 140mm option on the HD accomplishes a couple things. First, you get a 68 degree headtube angle (vs 69 for the Mojo SL). Second, you have the option of running a lighter fork compared to the 160mm HD.
The difference in frame weight between a Mojo and an HD is about a pound. I think the difference between a Fox TALAS 32 and TALAS 36 is also just under a pound. So an SL frame/fork combo will weigh 2 pounds less than a 160mm HD frame/fork, and the 140mm HD (with a TALAS 32) will basically split the difference.
Jason,
I currently have a Mojo SL and live in the Rockies. I weigh 200 pds with a full backpack. I like the Mojo but I’d like a STIFFER Mojo… especially on the rear end. Can you give me some thoughts on the differences in handling, stiffness, etc, on the Mojo SL versus the Mojo HD 140 ?
Thanx,
= Mike =
Hey Mike… I think what you need to do is study out the differences between the Mojo and Mojo HD. I have ridden both the standard Mojo and the HD. I honestly didn’t feel any rear-end looseness on the regular Mojo, but I’m also about 30 lbs. lighter. The HD really felt burly all-around in my day on the bike. I can’t specifically say that the rear end is stiffer, but my hunch is that it most certainly is.
With the HD 140, you get the benefits of a stiffer frame overall and a tapered head tube–all with the same 140mm travel that can keep you around the 27 lb range for a burlier bike.
Jason – appreciate the great reviews and articles! I’m trying to make a decision between the HD and the SL, but if I can get a HD that rides similarly to the SL (although a bit heavier, stiffer, and slacker) and can also be easily converted to a full HD, then I guess my decision is made!
But that’s the question – is the rear suspension geometry of the Mojo HD 140 really identical to the Mojo SL? Sure, the travel is the same, but unless the geometry/placement of the suspension links is identical between the 2 frames, it seems there would be different shock rate curves (differing shock rates at the same point in wheel travel). Which would mean that the two frames could ride very differently even though they have the same travel – e.g. one could be softer or firmer than the other early in travel, or in the middle of travel, or at the end.
Does Ibis make any claims that the Mojo HD 140 rear suspension will actually feel/ride the same as (or at least very similarly to) the Mojo? Or do I need to wait for reviews?
Thanks Steve! I don’t have my HD 140 spec sheet in front of me, but since the HD frameset has different angles and is an entirely-different frame from the standard Mojo, I’m guessing that while they will both have 140mm travel, they will ride slightly different. When I get a chance, I can scan the spec sheet and send it your way.
I just PDF’d the HD 140 spec sheet that I got at DealerCamp. It’s linked to at the end of the article, or you can go here:
http://www.feedthehabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/ibisMojoHD140Specs.pdf
hi Jason, if you had 5-6k to spend on all mountain or nowadays trail bike where efficient climbing and going down where both equally important and 5-6 travel is all you need for day to day trail systems (no jumps or hucking) but basic trail riding with loose rock and root climbs, long middle chain ring climbs and moderate bumps on downhill. Do you have a favorite? I currently ride the yeti 575 old version. Looking at new 575, mojo hd with 140mm fork, or pivot 5.7. And any parts you would love to have on it? thanks
I am looking at buying a Mojo HD 140. My biggest issue is the frame size. I am 5’9″ and like to ride all my bikes with short stems. I want the bike to be set up for climbing along with downhill and jumping. I tested a medium and felt cramped on it but i think that had to do with the bike set up itself. I am looking for a second opinion before i make my decision.
Now that you have ridden the Mojo HD 140 and the Mach 5.7, how do they compare? I’m looking at either one. I need something that does technical climbs well and descends just as good or better. Pro’s, con’s?
Morgan… thanks for pinging me. I have to admit that I haven’t ridden the HD in 140 mode, just the full-travel mode. So, I’ll compare that to the Mach 5.7.
The HD feels much more DH/FR oriented, but don’t get me wrong… the HD still climbs amazingly-well and remains well-mannered in all terrain.
The 5.7 feels like a great trailbike that’s flickable, fun and efficient. While it lacks carbon, it is still a killer bike and is super-light.
Both will climb very well and descend with aplomb. Hard to say, but the 5.7 feels much more like a killer trailbike (think if it more like the Mojo SL, really). You can’t go wrong with either one.