It seems like a lot of companies have been putting out their own competitor to the Patagonia Houdini lately. No guesses as to why on my end. A super-light wind shell that can be used across a variety of activities is very appealing. The difference between comfortable and cold is sometimes just a cool Spring wind, and a packable wind layer can solve that. La Sportiva just released their Freeway Jacket this season, and it fits squarely in that space. I think it’s a great option.
La Sportiva Freeway Jacket Features:
- Built for fast-paced travel in windy mountain conditions
- Ultralight fabric blocks wind without adding bulk
- Packable design stows easily in a pack or vest
- Breathable panels improve airflow during high output
- Adjustable hood offers low-profile weather protection
- Elastic cuffs and hem help seal out gusts
- Made with recycled materials for lower impact
- Weight: 160 grams (claimed, Medium)
- MSRP: $149
Ready for Wherever the Wind Takes It
La Sportiva’s Freeway Jacket launched at the perfect time of year for me – the beginning of Squamish rock climbing season. With the sun coming out more and the rock slowly stopping its seeping, I’m tempted back onto the stone. Our spring sunshine up here can feel warm at times, but with temperatures regularly in the 50s, all it takes is a light breeze to remind you that the summer is not yet upon us.
I was out climbing a trade route on the Apron the other day, and conditions were just like that. Sun shone down on me for a moment, but then the clouds came back and the faintest wind started to move through the valley. My t-shirt-weather dreams foiled, I reached back on my harness, unclipped and unpacked the Freeway Jacket, and covered up. Comfy once more at the belay stance. Nice.
The Freeway Jacket has been with me on many little outings since it showed up on my doorstep a couple months ago. It’s been a comfortable over-the-harness climbing layer when wind hits me by surprise, but it’s also been a decent under-the-harness layer for me when the temps are just on the edge and I’m up to lead the next pitch. The two-way zipper has made belaying easier, and the drawstring waist is effective at keeping up-drafts to a minimum (a common problem on larger walls).
Far and away though, my favorite feature is the in-pocket storage. The Jacket packs down into its sole zippered chest pocket with ease, and it has a cleverly offset webbing loop that makes it very easy to clip a carabiner to and throw on the back of the harness. If it’s not bound for the harness, it can be compressed quite a bit more than its packed size, then jammed into whatever little nook exists in your pack. Packability is on point.
Weight is easy to carry too, at 160 grams (claimed) in size Medium. For comparison’s sake, the Mountain Hardwear KOR Airshell is 180 grams and the Patagonia Houdini is 105 grams, both in the same size. So, while it’s not the lightest in the space, it’s in the right ballpark.
Comfort at the wrists, armpits, and hood (key annoyance spots for me while climbing) is good. The wrists have tidy elastic cuffs that keep wind out decently well and stay low-profile enough to not be a bother in hand and fist cracks. The fabric has enough flex to it to keep me feeling mobile and unimpeded at the armpits while climbing. Just enough to keep the waist from pulling out from your harness when you reach overhead. As a guy who ordered down a size, that was no guarantee, but the flexibility has proved to be sufficient. Finally, the hood fits nicely over either a head or a climbing helmet, which is a fine line to walk and a relief to most climbers.
Breathability is decent too. I wore the Freeway jacket on a couple colder springtime runs, and it was fine! Eventually I got warm enough to take it off, as I typically do running in shells, but it wasn’t boggy. It breathes pretty well, even for the heavier aerobic activities.
If I’m to knock any aspects of the Freeway jacket, I’d hone in on waist cinch location and pricing. The waist cinch is around hip height on the right side and has a little plastic doohickey to keep the elastic waistband tight. It’s effective, but it’s located high enough in the jacket to be right around the harness zone. When I was wearing the Freeway jacket under my harness, I found I had to be pretty intentional in order to avoid the weird pressure point. As for pricing, the Freeway jacket isn’t way off, but it is $30 more than the Houdini. With them being so similar, I’m not convinced the price difference is justified. That’s my two cents.
Fit: I’m 5’11” and a lean 170 pounds. I typically wear a size large for outer jackets, but since I only planned to wear this one over thin base layers, I tested a size Medium. The fit is athletic and trim, and I don’t have any qualms or regrets.
Buy Now: Available at Backcountry.com
The Bottom Line
There are plenty of jackets in the Houdini category these days, and La Sportiva has cooked up a very nice one. It stows well for rock climbing, is super lightweight, and it’s easy to put on in a flash since the 2-way zipper allows you to wear it over the harness. The jacket is very comfortable in general, blocking wind well and stretching enough to get by, with the exception of the waist cinch. That issue is avoidable though and only comes up when you wear the jacket under your harness.
The Good:
- Great at blocking wind
- Cinch waist keeps out up-drafts
- 2-way zipper makes for comfortable over-the-harness wear
- Packs into its own pocket and can be easily clipped to a harness
- Lightweight
- Comfortable fit
- Breathable enough to run in
The Bad:
- Waist cinch can cause a weird pressure point when worn under-the-harness
- Perhaps a tad expensive
- Breathability
- Mobility
- Fit
- Features
- Aesthetics
