It’s not very often that I’m blown away by a new bike, but it happens on occasion. Take the Intense 6.6, for example. When introduced, it was one of my favorite bikes. Then came the Ellsworth Epiphany, Yeti 575 and the Niner RIP 9. While those are all great bikes, the endless march continues for the best trailbike on the market.

As additional boutique bike manufacturers have adopted the much-heralded DW-Link suspension design, the praise has followed. But, only one combines full carbon with the DW-Link and that’s the Ibis Mojo. The DW suspension platform lives up to the hype–no question. So, would the carbon/DW combo prove to be the silver bullet? Locked and loaded, I was bent on finding out the answer to that question with a custom-built 2010 Ibis Mojo.

For kicks and giggles, read my Ibis Mojo HD Review. A bigger, burlier Mojo.

About the 2010 Ibis Mojo

Since its introduction in 2005, which also ushered the return of Scot Nicol to Ibis, the Mojo has won many awards as well as the hearts of a faithful crowd over at  Outside Magazine has gushed over it and so have most of the mainstream mountain biking publications over the past 4 years. The fireplace is adorned with everything short of an Oscar, I guess. And to top it all off, the vibe at is witty and a bit irreverent, which adds to the fun of the brand.

The standard Mojo is built from head-to-toe in the latest in high-modulus carbon fiber with smooth lines and available in five colors. Here are a few more specs:

  • High-modulus carbon-fiber
  • Easy-to-service pivots and bearings
  • Lopes Link now standard for increased stiffness
  • Forged and nickel-plated links in chrome, blue or red
  • Travel: 140mm (5.5″)
  • Colors: Clear, Nuclear Pesto, Guiness Foam, Vicious Blue or Eddy Orange
  • Weight: Sub-6 lbs. (frame & shock)
  • MSRP: $1999 (frame & shock)

Ibis Mojo: In For Review

Ibis Mojo Review

Upon arrival, the Mojo had a set of Crank Brothers Iodine wheels, a 2010 Fox 2010 32 TALAS fork and a complete SRAM X.9 group waiting in the garage to complete the build–solid parts to adorn this carbon beauty. I ended up with the clear black color frame (after waiting a few weeks for the Guiness Foam), which in the end looks to be the best choice in combination with the burnt orange wheels… it’s a looker both on and off the trails.

The complete build was performed by the crew at Timpanogos Cyclery in Pleasant Grove, Utah. Not only did they do a great job, but they turned it around in an afternoon in rockstar fashion. The mechanics were stoked to build up the Mojo and had the final weight waiting for me upon arrival… 26.5 lbs.! I knew it would be light, but not that light! I’m confident if I carbon this thing out, it would easily drop below 26 lbs.

The Custom Build

  • 2010 Ibis Mojo (Size: Large – Color: Clear – Lopes Link)
  • Rear Shock: 2010 Fox RP23 w/Boostvalve
  • Front Shock: 2010 Fox 32 TALAS 150 RLC
  • Wheelset: Crank Brothers Iodine
  • Drivetrain/Shifting: SRAM X.9
  • Cranks: Shimano SLX
  • Brakes: Avid Elixir R (180 front / 160 rear)
  • Tires: WTB Wolverine 2.2 F/R
  • Stem: Syncros AM (60mm / 12deg)
  • Seatpost: Ibis
  • Bars: Ibis low riser
  • Headset: Cane Creek IS3
  • Saddle: WTB Rocket-V
  • Pedals: Crank Brothers Candy SL

Ibis Mojo Bike Review - Jason Mitchell

On the Dirt

Once built-up, I couldn’t believe just how absolutely sexy this bike was. After a photo session suitable for a fashion model, I was this close to keeping it hanging in the garage a few more days just to enjoy it, but alas… the trails beckoned.

After looking through the included Owner’s Manual (yup, I actually read parts of it) for suggested rear sag settings, I settled on 15mm sag for my weight (175 lbs.) and riding style (everything, everywhere, all the time). That put me at 140 psi., which has turned out to be perfect for both XC and AM riding. The front fork took a little more fiddling to find the right air pressure, but in the end I’ve settled on 80 psi. For the first few rides, you may want to be sure and take a shock pump along as you fine-tune the suspension to your liking.

Above all, I keep coming back to the light weight of this bike as built. My goal was not to build the lightest bike, but this is by far the lightest all-mountain bike I’ve owned and it is absolutely amazing how much of a difference dropping a couple of pounds can make.

OK… once I got past the ooo’s and aahhh’s of the bike and its light weight, I was bent on finding its weak spots on the trail. I’ve now ridden the Mojo on a variety of nearby trails–from high-energy XC burn-fests to thousand-foot climbs and on down fast and technical descents. Nothing fazes this thing.

In all conditions, the DW-Link suspension provides super-efficient pedaling performance. Climbing traction is awesome in all conditions with the only weakness shown in the tire traction at times on steep, rocky pitches. The entire rear-end stays steady and smooth under occasional hard pedaling and digs in for fast power transfer throughout all types of steady climbs. The occasional standing climb does blow through the travel a bit more, but traction is maintained.

When pointing this bike downhill, the suspension really shines. I love how well it soaks up obstacles and adapts to varied terrain. Rock drops and jumps are no match for this bike as it launches with ease and lands with bottomless comfort. The suspension ramps up well with consistently smooth resistance–making the 5.5″ of travel feel like more. I’m sure the new 2010 Fox RP23 with Boost Valve that I’ve been riding improves the downhill performance over the 2009 model, but I didn’t have a 2009 model shock on this particular bike for a direct comparison. All I can tell you is the new 2010 RP23 is perfect on this bike.

Like all full-suspension bikes (except full-bore DH rigs), there are some small bump compliance issues where you can feel the rear end bouncing on rutted or rocky downhills, but it’s acceptable and forgetful considering how well this bike performs otherwise.

I’ve found the 2010 Fox 32 TALAS 150 with 15QR to be the perfect fork for this bike. Without question, the adjustability of the TALAS system makes this bike even more versatile, but if you’re running short on cash and have to settle for a 140mm or 150mm fork without travel adjustment, you won’t be sacrificing much. At full 150mm travel mode, this bike climbs with minimal wander and descends with confidence. Dropping it to 130mm slightly reduces front-end wander and makes for a little speedier handling (excellent for XC-style romps).

Ibis Mojo Bike Review - Jason Mitchell

Some may question the durability of carbon fiber, but throughout my tests, this bike has felt absolutely solid with no perceptible flex or weakness. Like any bike frame, a hard crash may require inspection by a mechanic, but carbon frames can in most cases be repaired easier than aluminum or steel tubes.

An email from Scot Nicol yielded a bit of the thought process behind selecting carbon fiber for the Mojo:

“When we first conceived of the Mojo back in ’03 or so, one of our biggest questions was about the acceptance of the material. We rolled the dice and went for it. At first there were a lot of questions about it. But once people got some time on their Mojos and reported back on MTBR and places like that, the acceptance became less and less an issue.

Now we’ve got guys like Brian Lopes riding it, and all you need to do is look at the video we’ve posted (go full screen) on the Lopes page on our website, and that should make a bit of a believer out of you.”

~ Ibis Founder, Scot Nicol

I opted to mount the Crank Brothers Iodine wheels on my Mojo and they have been the perfect wheelset for this bike. I suppose if you wanted to save 363 grams, you could go with the Cobalt’s, but the lateral stiffness, quick engagement and worry-free performance has been a perfect match for the Mojo. Leaning hard into the corners, the Mojo just carves with ease and the wheelset provides just the right stiffness to maintain a consistent trail feel. The Mojo SLX is now shipping with Ibis wheels, which look solid and offer 9mm, 15mm and 20mm axle compatibility out of the box.

Ibis Mojo Hearts the Ridge Trail 157 in American Fork Canyon

I’ve had more fun on the Mojo than on any other bike I can recall to date. It’s versatility is really unmatched (adding an adjustable-travel fork adds to that) and its overall efficiency just screams to be ridden and ridden hard. I love pounding out XC terrain and flying through twisty singletrack one day and then pushing the limits of my lungs and the Mojo on high-altitude climbs the next day. It is a consistent and comfortable performer when gravity takes over and always seems to glide through all types of sketchy terrain.

The Good

  • The most confidence-inspiring bike I’ve owned in a long time
  • Amazingly-light and fast up and down
  • Super stiff frame feels solid
  • Very flickable
  • Drop-dead sexy looks
  • Smoothest-climbing bike with 5.5″ travel
  • Climbs straight with 150mm fork–even without reducing travel
  • Built-in seatpost QR is smooth to use
  • No weight limit on the frame
  • 2-year warranty
  • Absorbs drops and soaks up rough terrain
  • Hauls tail equally well in XC or rugged AM terrain

The Bad

  • Difficulty in getting certain frame colors
  • Location of single water bottle mount is a waste
  • I have heard complaints about clearcoat chippage, but nothing so far with mine

Ibis Mojo: In For Review

The Bottom Line: 2010 Ibis Mojo

It’s hard not to gush over this bike. Superlatives like “best ever” and “bike of the year” are said with care because the overall feel of a bike depends on riding style and terrain, but I will step out on a limb and call the 2010 Ibis Mojo the most fun, most versatile and most capable mountain bike I’ve ever owned or ridden. The custom build I’ve got isn’t cheap, but you can get a similarly-performing bike for $3000 with the Mojo SLX kit and upgrade as needed. I can say with confidence that you could not make a better choice for true all-mountain performance.

Buy Now: Get an Ibis from

About Author

A native of the Pacific Northwest, Jason quickly developed a love for the outdoors and a thing for mountains. That infatuation continues as he founded this site in 1999 -- sharing his love of road biking, mountain biking, trail running and skiing. That passion is channeled into every article or gear review he writes. Utah's Wasatch Mountains are his playground.


  1. Just a quick update after a fine-tuning ride today. I dropped the shock and fork pressure slightly to see if that would help with some of the small bump compliance issues I had (pretty minor issues, really).

    Dropping the fork from 85 psi to 70 psi yields much smoother overall performance–especially on small, stutter bumps. And, dropping the shock to 130 psi did likewise improve small bump compliance, but at those pressures I felt more compelled to utilize both lockout and Propedal features.

    I’ll continue to post updates on pressures and performance as I focus now on an in-depth review of both the shock and fork. Stay tuned.

    ON ANOTHER NOTE… utilizing both Propedal and lockout, I was able to climb up the Clark’s Trail Time Trial in PR pace (13:33) and cut a full 30 SECONDS off my previous-best time. That’s saying a lot! My previous PR was on a hardtail 29er and this is a 6″ travel trailbike and I slashed my time by 30 seconds!

  2. What was your time?

    I have the same fork and shock but weight 170lbs. Any recommendations? May be 75 and 135 or the other way around 65 and 125?

    Nice review!! This bike certainly looks pretty nice!

  3. Dave… my time? Looks like I forgot to post it: 13:33. I’m no leg-shavin’ XC racer, so not bad. I think if I really pushed myself and stood on steeper stuff, I could drop another 30 seconds easily. As it was, I was in no mood to kill myself. 🙂

    Try the fork at 70psi and go from there. With the shock, it all depends on your bike… you on a Mojo or something else?

  4. Hi Jason; great review and sounds like a sweet bike; I went to the Ibis website and I’m a little confused; there’s a normal Ibis and the SL model but both are made in Carbon, which one do you have? Thank you.

  5. Hey Defuentes…

    Good question. If you dig a little deeper, you can find the answer. There are two Mojos: Mojo and Mojo SL. They are both carbon-fiber, but the SL takes things to the next level by utilizing a different modulus of material to make it thinner, lighter and stronger. It also has carbon dropouts (the Mojo’s are aluminum), headset cups and seatpost inserts.

    You can read all about the differences on this page of the Ibis site:

    It outlines them in great detail for you. $200 extra for a lighter and stronger bike if you want to get it even lighter.

  6. Jason,

    Yeti 575. Not too bad of time, but no Gillespie? He must be an animal on that trail. Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try.

  7. The 575 is a GREAT bike… Definitely not Gillespie or any of the Corner Canyon regulars, but getting better. I think the top guys have done it on cyclocross bikes or something.

  8. Jason,

    very helpful review and awsome website! Today ,I just pulled the trigger on a mojo sl slx with the fox talas 150, thanks for helping me blow $3500 bucks!! j/k! i’d like to know why you chose the mojo over the mojo sl? also, my LBS suggested getting the fox RPL instead of the RP23. I think both are the 2009 model but i’ll have to double check tommorrow. They said they’ve come to find the RPL is smoother than the RP23. Do you have any experience with the RPL? i’m more intrested in downhill performance rather than uphill. Any advice would be much appreciated, Thanks in advanced and keep up the good work!!


  9. Major

    Great to hear you’re stepping into a Mojo! You won’t be disappointed!!!

    I ended up with the regular Mojo due primarily to availability. From the outset I wasn’t set on building a superlight bike, but the extra weight savings of the SL would be stellar… maybe I’ll upgrade to the SL at some point.

    About the shock… if it’s a 2009, you will be lacking the Boost Valve technology, which is said to greatly improve downhill performance. Boost is only available on the 2010 RP23.

    I think you’d be just fine with the RPL, but isn’t the RP23 standard? Would they refund you the difference since the RPL is less expensive?

  10. Jason,

    Thanks for the quick response. There is no cost difference between the RPL and PR23 at this shop. They both cost the same, so there would be no credit. The guys there seem to like the RPL more because they say it’s more plush. I can have them install either. It seems like lots of people on consider the RPL a better shock than the RP23 also. Decisions, decisions! I’m gonna see if the can install the 2010 RP23 at no charge. Hopefully, Ibis ran out of 2009 and will ship me a 2010!! That’s what happened with my TALAS upgrade!


  11. My vote is the 2010 RP23. I had 2009 RP23 on a Yeti 575 and I prefer the 2010. You cannot go wrong with the new Talas either.

  12. Jason,

    I just spoke with the one of the owners of the Bike company, where I bought my bike, and he’s also Brian Lopes’s mechanic and sets up his ibis mojos. He told me he runs the RPL too and says they’ve discovered the RPL runs more plush than the RP23.


  13. Hi Jason, What is your comparison of Blur LT vs. Mojo? I like both bikes but leaning towards the dw link. I would go Carbon on the LT. Thanks, Larsey

  14. I wish I could do a direct comparison of the Mojo vs. Blur LT Carbon, but I’ve only ridden and reviewed the Blur LT aluminum. I’ve been told that they are night-and-day different.

    However, I can say this… the DW-Link feels much more efficient on climbs and on XC terrain. It just feels fast whereas the VPP feels just a bit sluggish in comparison.

    I’m a proponent of the DW, but I really like the VPP, Maestro and other similar designs as well.

  15. Hi Jason

    i read both this and your Niner RIP 9 reviews and you seem very positive about both. I wondered how you felt the bikes compared? particularly for a taller heavier rider.

    • Hey Alex…

      For taller riders, I can almost whole-heartedly recommend 29ers across-the-board. You can finally get on a bike the fits in every way. Let me compare the two a bit here though.

      The RIP9 is an outstanding overall bike and the new frame design makes it even moreso. It is going to be a bit heavier than the Mojo and may not be quite as versatile as the Mojo–however as a pure trail machine they will both kill it.

      If you are carbon-averse, the RIP would be a stellar option, but again it will be a couple of pounds heavier with similar builds. Superlight, fast and furious is how I’d explain the Mojo while the rip is efficient, fast and fun (all good traits).

      Really hard to say one over the other, but since you are taller, I’d say the RIP9 may suit you better.

  16. @Mike… not sure what the exact “official” rear tire clearance is but the Conti Mtn King tire is a beefy tread. I can’t say for sure either way. Have you reached out to your local Ibis dealer or Ibis directly on that?

    I’d ask them, but they are all at Interbike right now. If I was more on-the-ball, I would have asked Aaron at Ibis yesterday when I talked to them at the Demo. Sorry man.

  17. Jason,

    Well thought out review. I’m interested in hearing your pros/cons between Yeti ASR 5C and the Mojo SL and or a Yeti 575 and the Mojo SL, Talas 32 set up with all mountain builds.. How could anyone complain about any of the bikes, but would love to hear how they rate against each other (climbing, descending, etc.) I’m 175, 5’10” and like single or double track XC and occasionally tackle more difficult climbs or moderate technical downhill.

    I’m going to buy one of the three bikes. Trying to determine which frame and then whether to build for weight reduction (light wheels) or all-mountain (although I don’t do much ‘huckin’).


  18. Hey Scott

    Good selection of bikes to compare. I happen to like all of them and would second your thoughts on how someone could poo poo any of them. Each of them are amazing bikes with different capabilities.

    If you are mostly an XC rider who ventures into difficult terrain on occasion, I’d go for the ASR 5c or the Mojo SL. The ASR is a trail slayer that feels fast up and down, but you’ve still got to pick your line when the going gets rough. The Mojo SL (and regular Mojo) can keep up with the best of them in XC terrain, but is much more capable in the rough stuff than the ASR 5c is.

    When comparing the ASR 5c to the 575, think of the ASR as a long-legged XC race machine and the 575 as a true all-mountain trailbike.

    Hope that helps in your decision. All of those bikes are killer.

  19. What do you think of the Mojo Vs the Ellsworth Moment Vs the Trek Remedy? All around but more cross country oriented. I live and ride In the beautiful single track of West Virginia and Virginia. I also ride as far north as Ohio and south to Florida. When I go out west coast or Utah/Colo. I rent.
    Also how about durabilty of bearings/moving parts/frame… and warrenties written and actual customer service.
    Thank you.

  20. Craig

    Interesting comparison and one that I’m hoping to be able to complete here soon. The Remedy will be available for 2010 with an OCLV carbon frameset, which will put that bike into a similar spot as the Mojo. I’m hoping to ride it in the Spring, but right now it’s reserved just for the Euro’s for some reason (that’s what the Trek Brand Manager told me at Interbike).

    The last time I rode the Moment was a year ago at Interbike. It was a nice bike, but way too freeride-esque for my tastes. The front end was way too slack and it just didn’t suit my tastes. The Epiphany, however, is absolutely money. If you’re going to compare the Mojo to an Ellsworth, the Epiphany is more apples-to-apples.

    As far as warranties go… they should all take care of you well. Ibis has a 3-year warranty and I’m not sure about the others.

  21. “Like all full-suspension bikes (except full-bore DH rigs), there are some small bump compliance issues”

    Not “all” FS bikes have small bump issues. This is a legitimate problem.

    The Mojo’s shock leverage curve is a bit weird. It has a falling rate followed by a rising rate. This is the opposite of what the Blur LT/VPP bikes do. On the Blur you can run a lot of sag and still feel pretty efficient and not bottom out due to the falling rate at the end of travel. It also soaks up medium bumps very well. The Mojo can be plush but will want to blow through the travel unless you run it somewhat firm.

    However I thought the Mojo had an advantage in terms of maintaining traction and momentum while pedaling over rough terrain.

  22. @Christian

    Thanks for the details on some of the rising/falling suspension rates. It’s definitely something to consider when comparing the two designs. Since the review, I’ve found that if I run at a tad lower pressure, the small bump absorption becomes less of an issue.

    However, with many air shocks, this is an issue. It’s a trade-off that we make. Do we want efficiency or smoothness? Sometimes we can’t have both, but with the RP23, you can run less pressure and utilize the ProPedal for more efficiency. But, flipping the lever all the time does get annoying.

  23. I’m torn between either a Titus RACER X Ti or Yeti ASR 5c. I’m a skeptic when it comes to Carbon Frames taken on the trail I worry about the tolerance levels in regards to frame and pivot integrity; Mind you..I just take take the various trails all over Marin Ca. No drives to the “ski resorts” to do down hill courses and such(but then again..why not have a bike thats also capable of doing both…). So im wondering..of the two frames I mentioned what’s your take on em? Im a lightweight Buck 27 rider. The Mojo Reviews i have a 3rd dillema to be added in the plate. LOL..hats off to to all the reviewers.

    • Hey SID…

      The carbon dilemma is valid for sure. But, if you take care of your bike properly, I don’t see any problem with carbon frames. You’re going to treat it like a $5000 bike, right? If so, you should have years of worry-free riding on one of the most responsive and comfortable materials available today. Carbon bike frames are light and the dampening characteristics are amazing!

      You do have to exercise some care in hauling the bike around, but you sound like you know how to take care of a bike and not just toss it in the back of a pickup or set it down on top of a rock. Granted, an unforseen crash could come into play, but I can’t recall the last time I augered and damaged or dented any frame.

      Durability really shouldn’t be a concern and your question about pivot tolerances, etc. should be even less of a concern as the engineering behind building a carbon frame vs. aluminum frame should be just as solid.

      I haven’t ridden the Titus Racer X Ti, so I’ll have a hard time comparing them, but between Ti and carbon, they both have some of the same ride characteristics. I couldn’t say one over the other. I still absolutely love the Mojo’s efficiency and the ASR 5C is a solid rig–but not quite as capable as the Mojo.

  24. Thanks for the prompt reply =] Sorry if if i have a ton of questions. So having tested the Mojo and the ASR 5c, what noticeable differences in weight did you notice and when it came to climbing up trails and such, which of the two would you say is more responsive? So in regards to descending between the Mojo and ASR 5c what specifically are the positives and negatives? Does the Mojo put up more with bigger hits as to the ASR 5C? In regards to transporting ..i usually roof rack the bike. But in regards to storing a carbon frame, would any of the changing temps affect the material..especially in the cold? Again Thanks and Hats off to all the reviews.

  25. The ASR 5C was a fairly quick review (1 hour ride time), so detailed comparisons are hard–especially given I’ve now ridden the Mojo for nearly 4 months.

    Both are awesome climbers and will be very efficient. The Mojo is a bit more plush and more capable (as I’ve said), but both will be super-fast to the top. I’ve put up my best all-time climb times on the Mojo. The light weight nature of the frames make both the ASR 5c and the Mojo just fly uphill. You’ll notice the weight difference between these and comparable aluminum models.

    As far as on-trail responsiveness, the ASR 5C will be more of a rocket, but less capable of absorbing big drops. The Mojo really feels amazing downhill though. It tracks amazingly-well and carves up singletrack for breakfast.

    Temperature should have less of an effect on carbon than metal frames, I’d think (as far as ride characteristics. Dunno… I haven’t considered temperature much. As far as strength, temp should have zero effect.

  26. In regards to Carbon frames taken on the trail have you heard of them cracking, chipping or gah forbidd breaking? What’s usually the warranty in regards to carbon frames in general and worse comes to worse where can they be repaired if at all possible? What’s IBIS’ policy in regards to the MOJO’s warranty? I’m still a bit apprehensive in investing a ton of hard earned cash on a bike that will chip crack and break. Might just spend the extra cash and get a Ti Dual suspension frame..and just lighten up the components and parts…but man..that MOJO sure is pretty. That thing just stands out..when you see it on sum cats roof rack driving down the freeway.. the same thing might stand out too for the Yeti ASR 5c in white 😀

  27. Hey SID…

    Ibis has a 3 year warranty on their frames, which is longer than many (most are 2 years these days). Beyond that they will continue to take care of you in some way or another.

    If you are that concerned about the material, aluminum or titanium are still options, I suppose.

    I’ve seen evidence of a handful of carbon fiber bike failures. I have yet to see any Mojo failures. In talking with Scot Nicol of Ibis, I’m confident that their failure rate has been miniscule and those that have happened have been well taken care of.

  28. Pingback: Crank Brothers Iodine Wheelset Review -

  29. 1. Frame: Ibis Mojo SL large w/ matte finish rubberized polyurethane paint
    2. Wheel sets
    ? Crank Brothers Cobalt
    ? FSA (or competitor) ceramic bearings to replace cartridges
    3. Tires: Kenda Nevegal
    4. Brakes & brake levers: SRAM XX: 185 mm front/160 mm rear
    5. Crankset: SRAM XX GXP 2.2 28-42t
    6. Cassette: SRAM XX 11-36
    7. Chain: SRAM PC 1090 w/ Power Lock
    8. Chain stay protector: Ibis by Lizard Skin
    9. Pedals: Crank Brothers Candy SL
    10. Headset: (1 1/8” standard): FSA w/ ceramic bearings
    11. Stem: Ibis 3D forged or Syncros FL
    12. Handlebars: Easton MonkeyLite XC CNT 26” 660mm Low Rise 31.8
    13. Grips: Ibis clamp on
    14. Derailleurs
    ? Front: (bottom swing (high clamp), top pull, 34.9 mm): SRAM XX
    ? Rear: SRAM XX medium cage
    15. Shifters: SRAM XX (follow up on whether SRAM is going to come out with grip shifters for XX)
    16. Cables: Gore Ride-On
    17. Suspension
    ? Fork: Rock Shox Revelation Dual Air XX or Fox 2010 32 Talas 150 w/ 15QR
    ? Shock: Fox RP23 w/ boost valve (2010) or DT Swiss XR Carbon (what size?)
    18. Saddle: Fi’zi:k Tundra
    19. Seatpost-Adjustable (Crank Bros. Joplin) or Fixed (Easton EC90 Zero CNT 31.6 400mm)
    20. Seatpost clamp: Ibis

  30. I forgot to write on my above post…this is my proposed build out. Any suggestions? The components with 2 items are something I’m still debating.

  31. @Brett… that’s quite the build you’ve got there! Just a few comments:

    – Crank Brothers Cobalt Wheels would be sweet on this build
    – I’d look at alternative tires… Nevegal’s are nice, but are pretty slow. Maybe WTB Mutano Raptor instead?
    – Forks and shocks… I’d go with Fox front-to-back, but the Revelation XX should be an outstanding fork as well.

  32. Hey Jason…do you know of any shops that are competitive in their build outs or have a mojo sl in stock they’re looking to get rid of for the winter for a decent price?



  33. What’s your opinion on the WTB Wolverine? Looking to try a new front tire for all around norcal riding. I’ve read that it gets suspect when it’s wet – that true?

  34. @Dan… I’m really liking the Wolverine’s actually. They roll really well and hook up very well in hardpack conditions here in Utah. I’ve had good luck in the bit of wet conditions I’ve ridden. The shortcomings I see are in really loose or rocky terrain–especially climbs. As a front tire, they really hook up well. I can’t really speak to the wet conditions you’ll see in NorCal though.

  35. Jason – thanks. I’ve been riding an Intense CC 2.25 (which I think is now the System 5) w/ a Nevegal on the back. I haven’t had any complaints w/ that setup, just wanted to try something new on the front. Appreciate the response – stay tuned!

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  37. Jason…pulled the trigger on the Mojo SL, Iodine’s, and XX group. Still looking for a decent price on the Fox Talas. Should have the majority of my bike by the weekend!!!!


  38. Jason…have you had the Mutano Raptors on your Mojo with the Iodines? Did you use the 2.4’s? Any rubbing problems?


  39. No Mutano’s on the Mojo as yet. But, I’d be super-surprised if there was any rubbing. The Mutano’s are a very conservative 2.4 (more like a 2.2-2.3 IMO).

    I can give them a whirl in the next few days and let you know.

  40. That would be awesome…thanks. I keep running across MTBR threads with people complaining about rubbing. I don’t know if they’re just running flexy wheels or what.

  41. Jason…so I got Mojo SL with a DT shock on it. That’s what was on the frame for sale…and it was a screaming deal. I’m trying to trade it to somebody on the MTBR Ibis forums for an RP23. A guy offered me an RPL and suggested it was a better shock than the RP23. I’ve read a few threads where opinions about which was better. What do you think?

  42. OMG…I re-read that last post and I must be really tired today. It should say “I got ‘my’ Mojo…” and “where opinions ‘differ.'”

  43. Jason…this is my build. I have everything except the Joplin 4, Gore Ride On cables, pedals, and tires (but included the general price in my overall build cost). The Joplin 4 won’t be available until mid Jan. I’m still waiting on info from you regarding whether the Mutano Raptor 2.4’s will rub, and just haven’t gotten around to placing my FrameSkin order from Alan in Australia. I’m hoping to snag a pair of pedals on eBay around Christmas for a good price. I got screaming deals on several of the big items and saved a ton of money. I would say it was just luck and persistence rather than being “connected” or an eBay “Power Buyer.”

    Frame Ibis Mojo SL
    Shock DT Swiss XR Carbon
    Fork Fox 32 Talas 150 RLC FIT 15QR 110-150mm
    Brakes SRAM XX 185/160
    Shifter Set SRAM XX
    Crankset SRAM XX 175 42-28
    Bottom Bracket Truvativ GXP
    Rear Derailleur SRAM XX medium cage
    Cassette SRAM XX 11-36
    Front Derailleur SRAM XX (High clamp, top pull, 34.9mm)
    Shifer/Lever Mount Matchmaker X
    Chain SRAM 1090 w/ Power Lock
    Cables/Housing Gore Ride On derailleur cables
    Wheelset Crank Brothers Iodine (orange)
    Quick release adapter Crank Brothers 15QR adapter
    Tires WTB Mutano Raptor 2.4 (tubeless)
    Pedals Crank Brothers Candy SL black
    Headset Cane Creek 110.IS
    Stem Syncros FL Stem 100mm
    Handlebar Easton Monkeylite XC low rise 660mm
    Grip Oury Mountain Grip black
    Seatpost Crank Brothers Joplin4 Remote (available in Jan)
    Saddle Selle Italia Flite Carbonio Kit Flow
    Tire Sealant Stans goop
    Frame Protection FrameSkin
    Chain Stay Protection FrameWrap

  44. Jason,

    I am pullng the trigger on the Mojo today. One last decision after I have narrowed my choice to the Mojo from my short list of Yeti 575, Yeti ASR5, Santa Cruz Blur LT Carbon, and SC Tallboy. I can either get the Mojo (clear) with the XT kit and a weight around 25 lbs or I can get the Mojo SL (white) with X9.0 kit and upgrade to a Talas Fork for what I guessing about 26.5 lbs. Do you ride uphill in 100mm position? How much of a difference does it make. Price ends up being about the same. What would you do? Hoping you get this this morning and can give me your opinion before I jump. Thanks, Shaun

    • It surprises me that the SL is coming in at a higher weight… are you sure on those weights? Either way, I never climbed in 100mm mode–even in technical stuff. 100mm mode really puts a ton of weight on the front wheel, thus feeling like your plowing the earth. 130mm mode is just right, however. I recommend getting the TALAS or a Revelation with U-turn, but dropping below 120-130mm really shifts the weight balance and puts more weight on the front wheel than you’re gonna like.

      You’re gonna dig the Mojo, buddy!

  45. I figured the weights from the wrench science website. According to them, the Mojo SL X9 is about a pound heavier than the Mojo XT. I added a half a pound for the Talas upgrade. However, looking at the Fox website the talas only adds a tenth of a pound. One more question if I can. The Santa Cruz Tallboy was the first runner up. How would you compare it to the Mojo on Utah trails. I am 6′-1″ and liked the XL longer cockpit on the Tallboy and the idea of 29″ hoops.

  46. Hmmm… their calculator must be wrong as there’s no way that X.0 adds that much weight. Are the wheels different? The Mojo SL itself is .65 lbs lighter than the standard Mojo.

    Anyway… the Mojo is a killer bike–no question. I’ve really enjoyed mine and have found it to stack up at the top against everything out there.

    The Tallboy is somewhat of a surprising bike. I rode it for only an hour at Interbike, but during that hour, I was blown away by its performance and ride characteristics. It’s not going to be as plush as the Mojo, but will roll as smooth or smoother thanks to the big hoops.

    So hard to say, man. Both are going to be killer bikes, but if you’re looking for the best “do it all” bike (from Porcupine Rim to Clark’s Trail), the Mojo is going to be very hard to beat.

  47. I thought they were delivering them but could be wrong. Just pulled the trigger. The white Mojo SL with SLX kit and Talas fork will be sitting under the christmas tree thanks to Wild Rose. Thanks for the help.

  48. Hi, great review…
    I’m 5’10, currently happy with my Yeti 575 (medium, 90mm stem, straight thomson post), I run Lyrik in front and make it a heavy set up bike for harder AM.

    I’m looking for a lighter bike with a similar travel, I will run 140 fork instead to have a lighter and better climber.
    It’s been a long time I’m interested of getting a Blur LTc or a Mojo SL, but I couldn’t decided between those two and still confuse with M or L size.
    What do you think will suit me more? And what size? I will appreciate any comment and input… Thx a lot J

    • Looks like you’re right about my same size and setup on the 575. I ride a Large Mojo and find it to be perfect. The TT measurement is .3″ shorter on the Large Mojo vs. the Medium 575. Slight adjustments in stem length and rise will get you dialed just the way you like. Both the BLTc and Mojo are killer bikes. I’d say the Mojo is worthy of all the kudos indeed.

  49. Pingback: Finally… Details on the Long-awaited Ibis Mojo HD -

  50. Noticed that your running a short stem. I am curious about why you chose the short stem? There seems to be a couple of schools of thought on stem length as I read the message boards on MTBR. The old school represented by older posts in which Tom at Ibis recommends anyone on the boarder of sizes to pick the smaller size and go with a longer stem. Says they designed the Mojo around a 100mm – 110mm stem to evenly balance the bike for all around better performance and better climbing. Then their seems to be the new school of thought represented on newer posts, which is to set up your bike up like Brian Lopes with a shorter lowrise stem and wider lowrise handlebars which is better for downhill but affects climbing performance. I ended up getting an XL with a 110mm stem after using the fit system on Wrench Science. I know alot of this is just rider preference and finding a fit that feels comfortable but thinking I might try a shorter stem.

  51. Sweet. Thanks for the review, finally made up my mind to get a Mojo + X9 kit + 32 Talas RLC upgrade. Costs $3900 all in from where I am (Philippines). What else should I try to upgrade with the X9 kit? Was having a difficult time choosing among Ibis’ Mojo, Pivot’s Mach 5 and Titus’ FTM. Is carbon fiber bikes a good choice for first-time riders? This is gonna be my first mountain bike and I know I’m going to crash a lot since I try to be as aggressive as I can!

  52. @Shaun… stem length is highly-personal, but I typically go with a shorter stem on all my bikes. What that does is slow things down just a tad to provide more stable downhill handling. At 60mm, my stem may seem short to some, but it performs awesome both uphill and down. I’d maybe go up to 80mm, but that’s about as long as I’d go, personally. I have a few stems lying around should you want to try a different length.

    @John… You’re gonna be stoked on your new rig, but that’s quite the bike for a first-timer. Make sure you make the best of it. Crashing is a concern, but I wouldn’t worry about it. You’ll be just fine. It sounds like you’ve got a great setup with X9 and the RLC… really, I can’t think of much to upgrade outside the wheels or playing with tires. You don’t really need anything more than what you’ve got. X9 is killer and that fork is perfect!

  53. Thanks for the prompt reply man! On my way to our local dealer to make the downpayment! Wanted to include Iodine wheels with it since they give discounts if you buy with the bike but I guess I’ll save that for another day! More power and thanks again man 🙂

  54. Anders… the ASR5 and the Mojo can be very different beasts. If you go with the Mojo SL and a 140mm fork, you’ll be similar to the ASR5-C, but it will be much more plush than the ASR. The Mojo is an interesting mix of XC and AM, but in the end, the ASR will be much more of a race-machine–if that’s what you’re going for.

  55. Thanks Jason – I am going for something a bit more racy frame which makes me work more on the trail. Sometimes I feel my Yeti 575 saves my ass to easily and I would like a frame where I can feel the trail a bit more.

    But I do like that I can use a 150mm fork on the Ibis if I were off to the Alps or something a bit more downhill demanding. Oh well 🙂

  56. Hey jason great review. I’m about ready to do the deed. But one thing that has been nagging me is the differences between the mojo and the sl? why did you end up choosing the mojo rather then the sl? any input you can provide would be great. Also do you have any input on the easton haven wheels? is it worth the extra loot to upgrade to crank bros or industry9 wheels?


    • Great questions, Ian. As far as the Mojo vs. Mojo SL debate. It was honestly a matter of availability at the time. Ibis didn’t have anything available but the black clearcoat Mojo. So, Mojo it was without too much debate though if I had my druthers, I would have elected for an SL just to shave a tad more weight for kicks.

      The Easton Haven wheels look great. I’ve just read the blip on them in last month’s BIKE mag. I can say that the Crank Bros Iodine wheels are killer and I have no doubt that the I9’s would be equally sweet. A great pair of hoops is worth every penny, IMO. The Haven’s look to be a tad less expensive than comparable I9’s or CrankBros wheelsets. I’m sure between the three of those you’re getting an absolutely-solid wheelset that will perform well. The Haven’s are also about 250 grams lighter than either the Iodine or I9 Enduro wheelsets if that’s a part of the equation as well.

  57. Hey, did you sell you IBIS? I thought I saw one identical go for sale a couple of months ago. You have to help me out. I had a Yeti 575 09′ and I sold it. Looking to replace now with either a Mojo or even thinking Fisher 29 Hi Pro budget is $2500-$3400. What are your thoughts. I know you like the Tallboy, but it is out of my range.

    Thanks and keep up the reviews

  58. David… I no longer have the Mojo. That’s the one tough thing about what I do. Even though I absolutely LOVE the Mojo, I had to make room for other new bikes to come through for testing. I can’t justify keeping it around when I have 5-10 more bikes at any given time. The Mojo is, in my mind, still the gold-standard trailbike. I’ve yet to find its equal, but I’m on the endless hunt.

    For that budget, I’d still say go with the Mojo SLX and then do some careful upgrades. The HiFi looks sweet now too with the ABP. The old one was so-so, but the new one looks much-improved.

  59. Thanks Jason. My Yeti was a medium, but I read your Mojo was a large. I think I am about the same size as you 5’10-5’11” about 175lbs. Thoughts.

  60. Thanks. The reason I asked is I have a chance to pick up a Medium SL 2010 with full XTR,upgraded Carbon Swiss rear shock, Fork Fox Float 32 RLC 140mm travel, 15QR and the headset is the Cane Creek IS-110. Do you think I will have a problem with the size? Anything I can do to compensate?

  61. You could put a longer stem and a setback seatpost, but you may be too tight still. It depends on how you like your top-tube length and how long your legs are. As much as it would be a good deal, I’d be afraid it could be too small. Can you head up to Wild Rose and sit over a M and L to feel the differences?

  62. That’s hilarious. You are pretty much my body double, but I do have you by about 8 lbs on the light side. Give ’em a try, but I’d be concerned about the Medium for your build.

  63. Wow, are you calling me fat? Thanks for the info. I guess I will have to pass. May be go with the SLX, add the Talas and may be the new Shimano 3×10?

  64. How about both. I haven’t built out my new RIP just yet, but I’ll tell you when I do. The old RIP was outstanding, but I’d still choose the Mojo over it. The jury is still out vs. the new RIP. To be continued…

  65. Is your new RIP a 2010 and the old was a 2008? Also, are the extra dollars worth it for the SL or better to put the money into hoops?


  66. Yup… my long-term review of the RIP was the old model. New model is very much improved. SL vs. bling wheels is a tough call. The regular Mojo is lightweight enough for most people, but dropping a few hundred grams to get into the SL could be worth it. I like the color options with the SL a little better too.

  67. Ok. So I am looking at 2010 stock SLX, but upgrading to the 2011 Talas for $3K. I have an option to swap out wheelset and pick up a set of Easton Haven’s for $500. Worth it or is the stock going to be good enough? Other option is the 2010 SL with 2010 Talas at $3600. Decision, decisions. Thoughts?

  68. Jason,

    Slight problem. If I upgrade to the 2011 Talas it is 130-150 only and no Kashima coating. If I go aftermarket to get the coating the range drops to 120-150, but Scot Nichols tells me I will hit the pedals at 120 except on smooth fire roads. So is the better option to forget the Talas and go with the Float 150 with the Kashima coating or forget the Kashima coating?

  69. I don’t know enough about the Kashima coating to tell you whether or not it is worth it. I’ve heard good things about it, but I haven’t been given the complete run-down.

    130/150 is the perfect match for the Mojo. I’d be more worried about the travel settings than the Kashima coat if it were me, but again, I’ve yet to be educated on the power of the Kashima coat.

    My TALAS was 150/130/110 and the 110 is useless, but I used 130 all the time for XC terrain and extended climbs.

  70. Thank you. Getting the Kashima coating is only available for aftermarket–no OEM due to only one factory being able to coat. So I am going to go with an X9 build, the Havens, and the 2011 Fox/IBIS Talas 130-150.

    • Ha! You are spending way too much time analyzing this, my friend! Any of those wheels would be great, but I’d lean towards either the Haven or Iodine if it were my decision. Pull the trigger already. 🙂

  71. Done. I am going with the Haven, a Talas, and the SLX with the intent of going 2×10 or 3×10 when it becomes available.

  72. John or David…I am assuming you are the same person.

    Dude, thanks for all the info. I have been thinking about a Mojo as well. I have decided on the WTF-XX and waiting for my local dealer in the beautiful state of Washington to get one in. You know if you would have made a decision weeks ago you could/should have been out riding it. You must be buying a used bike though because I priced out what you did and no way it is that low.

  73. Pingback: Ibis Mojo HD Bike Review -

  74. Has anyone run a 120mm fork on a Mojo ? – thinking of buying one of these bikes but don’t really want to spend another 700£’s for new 140mm forks!!

    • I ran mine in 130mm mode extensively, but didn’t have the capability of running in 120mm. I imagine it would ride decisively more XC-ish. If you’re going for a shorter travel fork, 140mm would be the ideal, in my opinion. I think 120mm might make for too steep of a head angle for all-around goodness.

  75. I am in the process of figuring out what upgrades I want on my new MOJO SL XT package. My question is… are the Crank Brother’s Cobalt Wheels worth upgrading to? The colors are cool but is the ride that much better?

    • Maybe someone can fill you in on the Cobalt’s I rode the Iodine’s and absolutely loved their stiffness and looks. They were smooth rolling and performed admirably all Summer.

      There are other comparable wheels at or lower than the price of the Cobalt wheelset, but Crank Brothers makes a great product. What else are you looking to upgrade?

  76. Dan,

    For what it is worth. I emailed Scot Nicol, President of IBIS, and was told that the minimum should really be 130mm. That is why on the 2011 Talas upgrade is Mojo specific 130mm-150mm instead of the stock 120mm to 150mm. Hope this helps.

    Jason already reported how the useless the 110mm was and I do not think 120mm would be much different. See John’s post about what Scot told him.

    Becky, I personally am going with Easton Havens. See this post for more info on it and a Mojo

    A few of us at my work are looking at buying Mojo’s and have posted comments here. Great information and advise not just on this bike either. Keep it up Jason.

    By the way, new IBIS dealer in Bountiful, Utah. Bike Fix Utah. Check them out.

  77. Edu Guilhon on

    Hello Jason!

    Great Review!

    I was wondering if you ever compared the spz stumpjumper fsr to the Mojo?



  78. Jason thank you for this informative review. how would you compare the mojo to a high end scott spark? my background is extensively road and i am on a soft tail now. this has been sufficient for fire roads but the more technical trails and large rocky descents have been a challenge.

  79. JB

    The Spark is an entirely-different beast from the Mojo and they don’t really compare well at all. I’d compare the new Mojo to the 2011 Felt Virtue that’s coming soon. Looks like a hot bike:

    2011 Felt Virtue Carbon

  80. yes! that felt looks hot!
    how is the spark a different beast? how does the ibis compare to it? on my current soft tail i like the option of locking out both front and rear…ultimately i think i’d rather go up the hill faster than going down fast…for that matter are there other bikes i should be thinking about? thank you again…

  81. The Spark has only 110mm rear wheel travel and is intended for XC racing, so it’s fast and nimble for hard-charging singletrack. I’ve heard people complain about the rear end being a bit squirrelly on the Spark, but I’ve yet to ride one myself.

    If you are stoked to climb uphill fast and not as concerned about the down, I’d check out the Yeti ASR 5/5c:

    The Mojo would be on that list too, but if you’re looking for ultimate efficiency, something in the 120/130mm travel range would still be ultra-efficient but take the edge off the down.

  82. Hey, Jason!
    I’m new to this site, and I love it! Thanks!
    I’m heading towards a new bike- time to say goodbye to my old ETSX.
    Am debating (as many others here) between the LT and the Mojo.
    But my question is about the Mojo:
    Which do you think is a better choice-
    XT kit with a TALAS at $4,440
    SLX kit with a TALAS, Cobalt and Joplin seat post at $4,418?
    (prices are as appeared on Ibis website)

  83. Hey Gil

    Contrary to the date on the calendar, we’re into 2011 bike season. Yeehaw! So, unless you’re buying one off the shelf at a local dealer, you’ll likely have gobs of other options at your disposal (not to muddy the waters).

    If it were up to me, I’d go X9 or X0 2×10 with the Cobalts and TALAS. The only problem is they aren’t showing their 2011 pricing yet. They should be up soon though. While I like the CB Joplin, I don’t find it an absolute necessity and would rather see you spend money on better wheels, components and fork. You can always add the Joplin later.

  84. Pingback: 2011 Ibis Mojo HD 140: Splitting Hairs Between the HD and SL -

  85. Thanks!
    The CB Joplin is not important. The buttom line is, do you think it is better for the same budget, to take a lesser kit and upgrade for the Cobalt? I guess the answer is yes.
    Very helpful. And I might just wait for the 2011 prices. And again- love your site.

  86. Pingback: 2011 Pivot Mach 5.7 Mountain Bike – Quick Review -

  87. Pingback: 2011 Felt Virtue Lineup: Now in Full Carbon -

  88. Hi all, help me out please !!

    Do I go for the Mojo SL, Yeti ASR5 Carbon or the 2011 Stumpy Expert Carbon when its released??


  89. Hi all I second the kudos due to the Ibis Mojo. And I want to add a little bit about the durability of Carbon and the warranty with Ibis. I’ve had my Mojo for a few years now (so its’ not the SL or the latest/greatest) but I ride it a lot and race it a little. I did break part of the rear triangle on an epic ride near Evergreen, CO. It didn’t fail– in fact I didn’t even know it was broken until washing the bike later. Anyway Ibis didn’t even ask any questions, they replaced it quick, I think I was off the bike for a week!

    Later on a Clydesdale friend of mine was so jealous of how sweet my ride was that he bought an SL. Well he ended up breaking the bottom bracket housing TWICE! Again Ibis replaced it FAST. But since he was pushing 220 and riding like a crazed lunatic–as always I didn’t really blame the engineering. And again the break didn’t cause a bike failure just some noise and friction.

    I love this bike and the company has been great.

    -Bob Maiocco

  90. Up grading to either an Ibis mojo or SC blur lt likely built 5 inch ‘ xc/am. I live in Canada. My only concern is downhill performance on rough/rutted/rocky descents and small hits. I am sure climbing performance is excellent. I have been to the states. The riding is great but the trails tend to be much smoother than where I ride up here .


  91. I have a burly bike for whistler sunpeaks etc. I really want a bike for all day rides some fun enduro races etc but I just can’t stand a whimpy front end. My current xc/trail came with a Manitou minute and I had to change it to something that is really too heavy with 20mm as I couldn’t stand the sketchy D/H performance. That fork – whilst light is a little like spaghetti. I really want the uphill performance of the Mojo, but I know that a Blur LT with a fox fork will deliver on the DH. That said i’ll bet that mojo HD weighs less that a Blur anyway. Great climbing without giving up to much on the DH. Am I asking to much?


    • Dan… don’t even get me started on Manitou forks. I’ve ridden several over the years and have yet to find one that impressed me. With the ability to run a tapered steerer, the Mojo HD or HD 140 should be perfect for what you’re describing.

  92. Jas,

    Love the column you write. I pulled the trigger for a 2011 with the new Talas. Reading your review I noticed we are the same size and weight. Do you recall what your settings were on your Talas?

    Great bike! Thought about the HD 140 but did not want to wait until next year!


  93. Rob… I can’t recall exactly, but I always start right in the middle on rebound and then fine-tune from there. RP23 was set between 130-140psi. Start with those and fine-tune from there. With the new fork/shock, pressures may vary from my test bike.

  94. Pingback: Niner RIP 9 Review: The Ultimate 29er Trailbike? -

  95. Jason, I was wondering if you have heard any news on an Ibis 29er? Or even a Carbon Niner Rip 9? I know is a lot of chatter about both but I wanted to see if you had any knowledge about it? I talked with a Kona Rep about 2 weeks ago he said they are working on a carbon hei hei 29er.

  96. Spenser

    Great questions. The options for full-suspension carbon 29er’s are pretty slim these days. I can’t tell you with 100% certainty, but I can at least tell you what I’ve heard.

    Ibis 29er: I’ve heard directly from Scot Nicol that they ARE working on this and should have something to show in the Spring of 2011. He says it will be nothing like what’s out there on the market (his words). I’m not so sure what will be so different about a full-suspension DW-Link 29er, but the combo of those three items will indeed be nothing like what’s on the market now.

    Niner Carbon RIP or JET: Based on their experience with the Air9 Carbon, I’m guessing they are reluctant to delve into carbon on their other frames anytime soon. Eventually, yes, but I think they are focused on delivering the Air9 Carbon right now. I asked Both Steve and Chris point-blank about a year ago if they were working on other carbon bikes and they said “no”… even off the record.

    That’s what I’m seeing, man.

  97. Thanks Jason. I have been trying to decide if I should go ahead and buy a Rip 9 now or just try and wait it out for carbon. The only other bike I have even considered is the Ibis Mojo if they make a 29er. I think I will just wait and see what they release, ibis makes a solid product, thats for sure. I really appreciate the information, its quite hard getting any leaks out of these guys over emails and phone calls.

  98. Jason – I contacted Ibis about a tapered head tube for the 2011 Mojo SL and got a response from Scot Nicol. He said only the Mojo HD and HD/140 have the taper, but not the SL. Would you let this deter you from getting the Mojo SL at this point? I would assume then the tapered head tube will trick down to the SL for the 2012 model.

  99. Jamey… I wouldn’t write it off due to a non-tapered headtube. The SL is a superb bike that’s supremely capable. I also spoke with Scot about this very thing and he doesn’t have any plans to change the SL molds at this point. If you want tapered, you have to go with the HD.

    Changing the carbon molds is an expensive endeavor and can’t just be done in a whim. I’m not sure when we’ll see tapered options on the SL, but market pressures may make that decision for them at some point.

  100. Jason, I like reading your reviews a lot. Thanks and keep them coming please.

    I’m building a bike for next year’s Tour De Timor. 500 km 5 day race with climbs to 5700 ft. Lots of rocky unpredictable terrain. I having trouble deciding between a burlier HD140 build or a SL for weight savings. Should I go for the xx groupset or perhaps the new truvativ x0 carbon 2×10? CB Iodines or lighter weight cobalts or even the Easton Haven Carbons? I’m 183cm, about 170 pounds.

    Those mountains are no joke, we are talking 24 mile long climbs!

    • Gene… ultimately, either bike would be great for this, so it’s hard to say either way. But, if it were up to me, I’d go SL and either the XX or X0 grouppo’s are equally superb (it depends on your budget). As far as wheels go, the Haven Carbon’s would be oh-so-nice, but the Cobalts would be just dandy, I’d say. I dig the Iodine’s, but I think you would appreciate a bit lighter rolling weight with the Cobalt’s.

  101. Jason, thanks for the informative review and comments. Unfortunately, my Epiphany was crunched by a car and will need a new bike. I am comparing an Epiphany to the Mojo SL (carbon). I’ll go with the talas rlc 32 fork for either bike. I saw comparisons to the Yeti and some other bikes. Wanted to get your take on the Epiphany. Parenthetically, I really, really liked the Epiphany, especially for all kinds of downhill conditions. I ride xc trails with long (sometimes technical uphills) and corresponding downhill runs. Drops on the downhill are rarely more than 5″ or 6″ inches.


    • Hey Michael

      Thanks for the kind words and sorry to hear about your Epiphany. I wonder if Ellsworth may get you some sort of a discount on a new Epiphany? It may be worth a try.

      I really like the Epiphany also:

      It’s really hard to say which one I’d choose if the decision were up to me since I’m 2+ years removed from my Epiphany saddle-time. But, I don’t think you could go wrong either way and I wholly recommend the Ibis Mojo SL (if you didn’t get that already).

      • Jason, as a follow-up, I did go with the Mojo SL and love it.

        The Mojo has a superefficient uphill climbing capability. The dw link is awesome. There’s much more of a direct connect from the drivetrain when going up long hills compared to the Epiphany.

        The Epiphany is a little bit more comfortable on downhill drops but the difference is btwn super,super plush and super plush. I have noticed the Mojo has a bit better turning capabilities on tight technical turns. There are some hairpins I can do much more readily on the Mojo than I was ever able to do on the Epiphany.

        Thumbs up on the Mojo SL


  102. Hey
    I’m a verry happy and proud owner of an Ibis Mojo SL. After upgrading and carbonising I’ve managed to drop the weight to less than 12kg! I’m still looking for some options to drop below 11kg, possible but then I need to put in a fork with 120 mm travel or less. Will this damage the geometry too much?

  103. Maybe someone can fill you in on the Cobalt’s I rode the Iodine’s and absolutely loved their stiffness and looks. They were smooth rolling and performed admirably all Summe

  104. Hi Jason….great review and perfect bike set up.
    I have a problem….fit calculators have me in between M and L. I noticed one chunk in this thread devoted to frame dilemmas…..apparently I’m not alone.
    I currently own a Scott Genius 30 Medium, and it feels about right. I am 50, weigh a bit over 200 pounds, have a 32.5 inseam, and am 5’10 1/2″. I do road, trail, and AM (but not serious DH). I want to improve my skill on downhill though. I’ve been riding about 3 years. I favour a bit of an upright position, but get uncomfortable after a while, and need the room to stretch my butt out. I just don’t want to sit like that the whole time. Mostly for the comfort “down there” rather than any back problem.
    Would you recommend a Medium or a Large? You rode the large, and you seem to still have a bend in the elbow. I’ve received many suggestions from other forums…..most recommend large, but some suggest medium. One fellow at Ibis said large, one said medium.
    I’m abroad and test rides are tough. They don’t have a large here, so I only sat on the medium.
    It’s tough to call it.
    Your thoughts, if you care to offer……thanks!

    • Sizing is hard. I’m your exact same height and inseam and I have the same issues with fit as you do since I can span two sizes. That said, without question on the Mojo SL, I’d go Large if I were you. Play with your stem length to make it fit just right. As you can see from my spec, I had a 60mm stem on mine. I’d recommend somewhere between 50-80mm if I were you.

      Putting a long stem on a shorter frame is less preferred to putting a shorter stem on a longer frame, IMO (as a general rule).

      • Thanks, Jason.
        As crude a method as this might seem, I did this:
        Measured a couple of photos of the Large that were true profiles shots. Yep, right on my computer screen. To the millimetre. I measure the wheels, and converted that as a fraction of 26 inches. Then did dropout to head tube centre, BB to head tube centre, you name it.
        Compared the measurements with those of my Scott (17.5 inch frame). I did this over a couple of photos. (Did I mention there’s no Large where I am… least I haven’t been able to source one). It looks as though the Mojo L dimensions are bigger than my Scott by a bit. If that translates into the M being a bit tighter than my Scott, I suppose I could live with that.
        I just don’t want the L size Mojo to be more than just a tad bigger all round than my Scott. Yes, I can shorten the stem (I’m running 100mm on the Genius), but I also want to consider head and seat tube angles. I may be nickel and diming, but I figure I might as well get it right now. Interestingly, Wrench Science puts a “flexibility” factor into their sizing. I’m a 5, which means I can touch my toes, but palms flat on the ground is out of the question.
        Hans initially recommended L, but my measurements were stated slightly incorrectly. Upon revising downward slightly, Tom suggested M, and said he has known of riders as tall as 6’1″ on a medium.
        I’ll get ‘er figured out eventually…..many thanks for your quick reply and excellent advice/reviews.

  105. Does anyone experience chain suck on your mojo sl?
    I am slightly suspicious considering I’m riding the same trail as my previous 4 bikes and I’ve never experienced this before, none of my mates have chain suck, ibis have a whole page dedicated to this problem and they’ve even gone to the trouble in getting k-edge to make them a specific anti-chain suck device….mmmm, is it me or is there a problem???

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  107. Jason,
    First time reader and very impressed with your knowledge. I too am torn between the Epiphany and a Mojo… What to do what to do???
    Almost two years ago you said “The Epiphany, however, is absolutely money. If you’re going to compare the Mojo to an Ellsworth, the Epiphany is more apples-to-apples.”
    Do you still have the same opinion two years later?

    • So sorry it took awhile to respond… right in the middle of Outdoor Retailer show. I appreciate the pat on the back and am glad to provide you with a little extra info.

      It’s a tough call between the Epiphany and Mojo. I will say that the Epiphany has undergone some changes since I last rode it. The new SST.2 is drastically different from the one I rode two years ago. Also, the Mojo SL-R is a great improvement on the already-stellar Mojo. In short… I’m guessing both bikes are equally awesome, but things have changed.

      I’ll further muddy the waters with the Pivot Mach 5.7… that is also one sweet ride and it will come in carbon for 2012! if you’re carbon-averse, go with the Ellsworth, otherwise get a Mojo!

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